Interview with Boyukagha Mikayilli

The Land Above Our Head: Reflections on Shusha

Education and Cultural Memory of Shusha

My path to Shusha has always passed through the realm of education. In the early 2000s, I began a column in the newspaper Tehsil ve Zaman (Education and Time) titled “Education in Shusha during the Refugee Years.” Through these writings, I examined the history of education, science, and culture in Shusha, highlighting the eminent personalities who contributed to the city’s intellectual and artistic heritage.

I devoted special attention to the pedagogical traditions of Shusha, the experiences of its distinguished teachers, and the challenges that education faced during the years of displacement. In the series Venerable Teacher, I dedicated my very first article to a teacher from Shusha. The people of Shusha themselves became my source of knowledge—individuals who carried within them the grief, memories, and spiritual resilience of their homeland. They were like living schools, each embodying the history of both joy and sorrow.

The history of Shusha’s educational life is both deep and significant. The first secular school of the region was established in Shusha, laying the foundations of rich traditions in Azerbaijani education. Shusha made invaluable contributions to national cultural values admired worldwide. More than a century ago, the preparation of pedagogical cadres began in Shusha, with the Shusha Teachers’ Seminary founded only a year after the establishment of the Azerbaijan State Pedagogical University. Thousands of teachers trained at this institution went on to serve schools across Azerbaijan. In addition to state institutions, private schools such as Govhar Agha’s school and Samed Bey Aghayev’s school also operated in Shusha.

Before writing an article marking the 85th anniversary of the Seminary, I studied archival materials and discovered important historical nuances. From books I read and memories I collected, Shusha emerged before my eyes as a canvas of unique colors found nowhere else in the world.

I vividly recall the year 2000, when the 250th anniversary of Shusha was celebrated at the Azerbaijan State Academic National Drama Theatre in Baku. As a journalist invited to the ceremony, I prepared an article titled “The 250th Anniversary of Shusha Celebrated Without Shusha,” which captured my deep grief over the city’s absence due to occupation. Today, however, that sorrow has transformed into a renewed journey—Shusha, liberated by the iron will of the Azerbaijani Army and the leadership of the Commander-in-Chief, has once again welcomed us as a mother embraces her children.

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Shusha: Conqueror of Hearts

Shusha is more than a city; it is a sacred “mountain-tree” planted on the earth by divine will. Around the world, there are cities perched on mountaintops—cities that rise above the clouds and kiss the sky. Yet Shusha differs from them all: it conquers hearts, not merely heights.

It is the homeland of mugham singers with voices of miracles, a place where nature itself seems to sing. Shusha’s spiritual values, its streams of pure air, and its unique geography make it a city unlike any other. Landmarks such as Qırx Pilləkan (Forty Stairs), Khan’s Cave, Yeddigat (Seven Layers), Erimgeldi Fortress, Isa Spring, Khanqizi Spring, Şekili Spring, Daşaltı Spring, Soyuqbulag (Cold Spring), Şəkine Spring, İsti Bulag (Warm Spring), Çarıq Bulag, Qırx Bulag, Yüz Bulag, Şor Bulag, Turshsu, Dəvəbatan Spring, Əjdaha Bulag, Şirlan Water, and the Topxana Forest all give Shusha the essence of being the “heart of the world.”

As we traveled along the newly constructed Victory Road, it felt as though a giant heart was pulling us closer to Shusha. The rhythm of the road echoed like Shusha’s own heartbeat. For years, barbed wires symbolically separated body from spirit, but now they have lost their power—Shusha has reunited with her people.

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The “Aorta” of Victory Road

The journey to Shusha is more than physical—it is deeply spiritual. On cloudy days, the Victory Road winds through villages and settlements once reduced to ruins during the years of occupation. This road breathes new life into Karabakh, symbolizing both revival and belonging. The liberated lands seem to whisper to every traveler: “You are mine; I love you.”

As our caravan moved forward, one of our companions pointed to the ruins of Fuzuli, a city once reduced to ashes by occupation. Buildings had been destroyed, trees burned, and even stones shattered. Yet, the day of Fuzuli’s liberation during the Forty-Four Day Patriotic War was among the most joyful in Azerbaijan’s history. Named after the great poet Fuzuli, the city was insultingly called Varanda by the occupiers. It was liberated in a single decisive strike by the victorious Azerbaijani Army. Many martyrs gave their lives, but ultimately Azerbaijan reclaimed its rightful lands.

Today, Fuzuli stands as the central artery—the “aorta” of the Victory Road—leading directly to Shusha. Just as the aorta sustains life in the human body, Fuzuli sustains the path of return to Shusha, symbolizing continuity, resilience, and the rebirth of a nation.

Shusha Is Seen in Front

Shusha reveals itself like the land above our head. It is as though the Almighty placed it at such a height that nothing exists above it. The Creator gave the Azerbaijani people sons of courage, capable of ascending to this sacred height and of teaching miracles to the very mountains themselves.

We ascend to Shusha along the Victory Road—a road embodying the courage, resolve, and aspirations of the Azerbaijani soldier. Each step forward evokes profound emotion, for every stone along this path reflects the iron will of those who fought. The mountains rise in front of us as monumental natural fortresses, each rock appearing as the most magnificent of its kind in the world. As we draw nearer, one feels an almost spiritual transformation: becoming part of the mountains, merging with the air, the waters, and the soil of the motherland. It is as though the blood of the martyrs, mingled with the earth, flows now through our own veins.

Although autumn approaches and most grasses have turned yellow, certain wildflowers and medicinal herbs still flourish. Yet the Kharibulbul—the emblem of love and eternal bond with Shusha—remains absent, awaiting spring.

When our driver halts the bus, we step outside. The fresh mountain air fills our lungs, but more than air, it feels as though the spirit of Shusha itself penetrates our hearts. From a distance, the village of Dashalty is visible—a name that has pierced the Azerbaijani soul for three decades. It was here that more than a hundred soldiers fell during the First Karabakh War. Today, their spirits rise above the village, greeting us as we continue toward the “land above our head.” The forests whisper, streams murmur, and the breezes sweep down from Boyuk Kirs, Kichik Kirs, Saribaba, Shishtepe, Uzunyal, and Qizildash. Together, they create the miracle of nature unique to Shusha—an eternal harmony that exists nowhere else in the world.

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Impassable Roads Passed with Strength of Spirit

The climb becomes steeper. Even with modern transport, ascending to Shusha is not simple. I gaze at the mountain cliffs, recalling how Azerbaijani soldiers—guided only by the command of the Supreme Commander-in-Chief, and with the strength of their arms and faith in their hearts—scaled these very rocks to liberate Shusha.

Indeed, impassable roads are conquered through strength of spirit. The liberation of Shusha demonstrated that true victory is achieved not only through weaponry, but through unwavering determination, fidelity to history, and love of spiritual values.

We pass a military post where Azerbaijani soldiers stand guard. Ahead, the flags of Azerbaijan and Turkey wave proudly side by side, rising against the backdrop of the sign reading Shusha. Soon we pass a newly built power station—symbolizing a renewed city of “light, morality, and culture.” In Shusha, the lights will never be extinguished again.

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The Irreplaceable Treasure of Humanity

At last, we enter Shusha—the cradle of voices, poetry, and art. The city breathes through the ghazals of Aghabeyim Agha, the poetry of Molla Panah Vagif and Qasim bey Zakir, the verse of Khurshidbanu Natavan, and the scholarship of Mir Mohsum Nevvab and Mirza Jamal Javanshir. It resonates in the voices of Jabbar Qaryaghdioghlu, Khan Shushinski, Bulbul, Rashid Behbudov, and in the compositions of Uzeyir Hajibeyli, Fikret Amirov, and Niyazi. It lives in the works of Yusif Vezir Chemenzeminli, Ahmad bey Agayev, Abdurrahim bey Hagverdiyev, and in the weavings of Latif Karimov.

Shusha is not merely a city; it is an irreplaceable cultural treasure of humanity—a “qibla” of Azerbaijani culture and morality. Every breath of its air, every drop of its water, every stone and blade of grass, carries the memory of centuries. The Russian poet Sergei Yesenin once wrote: “If you cannot sing, you are not from Shusha.” People’s poet Samad Vurgun observed that Shusha was renowned not only for its sublime nature but also for its poetic and musical culture. For these reasons, Shusha has been rightfully declared the Cultural Capital of Azerbaijan by President Ilham Aliyev.

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The Revival of Shusha

Walking through Shusha today, one feels the scars of vandalism left by decades of occupation, yet also witnesses the city’s revival. Armenian forces sought to erase Shusha’s Azerbaijani identity, but they failed. The blood of its rightful owners runs deep in its soil. As the Commander-in-Chief declared on the day of liberation: “Dear Shusha, you are free! Dear Shusha, we will revive you!”

Everywhere, signs of revival are visible. Streets echo with life, bakeries once again fill the air with the fragrance of fresh bread, and people wait in queues not with impatience, but with joy. To taste bread in Shusha itself is a profound moment—nourishment both earthly and spiritual.

We visit the shot statues of Natavan, Uzeyir Hajibeyli, and Bulbul. Once desecrated, they now stand as eternal testaments to Azerbaijani resilience. Statues can be fired upon, but they cannot be killed. Their spirit, like Shusha itself, is immortal.

At Jidir Plain, we look out across the precipices. The cliffs that once seemed impassable became the very bridges of liberation, transformed by the courage of Azerbaijani soldiers into pathways of victory. From here, it feels as though all Azerbaijan is within sight—and that Azerbaijan itself is watching us.

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The Native Spirit Returns

We walk through graveyards desecrated by occupation, where martyrs of the First Karabakh War had been laid to rest. Soon these sacred sites will be restored. Nearby stands the mausoleum of Molla Panah Vagif, once again revived through the Vagif Poetry Days. Shusha breathes poetry once more. The Bulbul House Museum has reopened, hotels welcome visitors, infrastructure is rebuilt, and plans are underway to restore nearly 200 historical monuments.

At the Yukhari Govhar Agha Mosque, silence transforms into eloquence. The voices of Panah Ali Khan, Ibrahim Khalil Khan, Govhar Agha, and architect Karbalayi Safikhan Garabaghi echo in its stones. Here, the adhan (call to prayer), first heard again when Shusha was liberated, continues to resonate in our hearts. The mosque stands as a symbol of spiritual renewal and of Azerbaijan’s victory.

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Farewell to the Land Above Our Head

As evening falls, we prepare to leave. Passing through Yeddigat, the land above our head bids us farewell. A light drizzle descends, as though Shusha itself blesses us, whispering: “Return again.” With a final glance at the mountains, I murmur: “Goodbye, Shusha. Until we meet again.”

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Baku–Shusha–Baku

Translated from Azerbaijani into English by Yasamen Gadirova